Sunday, September 25, 2005

Surfing

Wednesday morning at 7AM this was me:



Yes, I went surfing, something I've always had an itch to do, especially since spring break when I managed to get up once on a board one of the girls had rented. I went with one of my RAs, who goes occasionally and has two boards. It was a humbling experience. The waves weren't that great (that's always a good excuse)...they were large, but rather unorganized...'choppy' they say. Sean (RA) only managed to get up once or twice so that made me feel better. I'm definitely going to have to go again and start getting in to it.

The ocean though is something that I've come to greatly respect since coming here. It's pretty dang powerful. It took quite a bit of energy just to paddle out through the 5-6 footers...just to even get started. Though it can be really calm and nice (which it normally is during non-hurricane season), the rip currents can be incredible. Back when Opheila was off the coast a while ago I went in and have never felt water so powerful. You'd jump in to or brace for a wave and would be 20 down the shore by the time you had collected yourself again...only to prepare for another wave.

And then there's the whole 'deep sea fish' factor, which intimidates me...not necessarily sharks even...just the fact that I don't know what's out there and there could be these massive fish just swimming around beneath me. Wednesday morning there was one small fish getting chased by a larger fish...they both just kind of darted around and jumped at the top...which to be honest freaked me out a bit, but Sean dismissed it as some random fish.

The ocean's pretty humbling, but awakening in the same way...the whole adventure itch stirs in me.

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